By Cheryl Buckley, Hilary Fawcett
Representations of stylish femininity have extended throughout the twentieth century. In type shop ads, magazines, images, and museum collections, advanced models of female identification were and are being shaped. This booklet examines the connection among women’s type, woman illustration, and femininity in Britain from the top of the nineteenth to the tip of the twentieth century.
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Extra info for Fashioning the Feminine: Representation and Women's Fashion from the Fin De Siecle to the Present
These various events and functions created new and expanding markets in clothing and an increasing outlay on fashion for those wealthy enough to be part of the season. In this moneyed arena, an engagement in relatively open sexual adventures by the Prince of Wales and his circle, far from resulting in notoriety for the women involved, in the case of Langtry, Alice Keppel and Daisy Warwick only increased their status and acceptance within society. Daisy, Lady Warwick had met Edward in 1883, and remained his ‘favourite’ until the mid-1890s, when she was succeeded by the society beauty Alice Keppel.
Langtry, as already established, was an immensely popular figure, but she was also pivotal in the development of a new type of femininity, which while detached from the political idealism of the ‘New Woman’, was ultimately identified by entrepreneurialism and financial independence. In her twenties, while married to Ned Langtry, she had a succession of affairs with prominent society figures, including Edward VII and other luminaries. The new morality of the later nineteenth century allowed her to be accepted in this role, even to the point of being presented at court to Queen Victoria.
Lady’s Pictorial, 14 December 1895. 18 FASHIONING THE FEMININE London was the centre of new and exciting developments in the retailing of fashion, and offered a bustling and energetic background to the new rituals of consumption for women. 4 Department stores offered middle-class women – through their window displays, advertisements and the structure of the shops themselves – a version of the world represented on the society pages of magazines. 5 The themes of glamour and romance were all-pervasive in the period, and ranged across the developing cultures of consumption for women.